There's No Place Like Home

Sunday afternoon I clicked my ruby red slippers together (ok, so they were actually TOMs…), boarded plane after plane, and after 7 incredible weeks and a long 36 hours in transit, I am finally settled back in at home. Well, maybe not as completely settled as my mom would like being that my suitcase still lays sprawled open on my bedroom floor. Yet it's more than the jet lag that keeps me from beginning to tackle this seemingly impossible task; I think I may be delaying unpacking because it would mean the end of my adventure, an adventure that has captured me fully for the past seven weeks. Sitting outside on my last day in Auki, I tried to reflect how different it would be returning home. I knew I had changed, both from the experiences I had had and the beautiful people I met along the way but I wasn't sure how this would fit in to the daily life I had left back in Connecticut and at PC. My main hope was that I would not quickly lose the humbling sense of simplicity that I had experienced the past three weeks and resist getting sucked into the materialistic hustle and bustle of schedules and technology. It was amazing to witness the community-oriented way of life in the Solomons and how it operated without the "new and improved" gadgets that you just "have to have." I also noticed that it seemed as though the less people had, the more they seemed willing to give. On one of the last days, I watched as the small daughter of the woman who presented me with the beautiful shell money necklace at St. Augustine's tried to give her own necklace away to someone else in the parish after seeing what her mother had done earlier. I was blessed to share this moment of genuine giving and sharing and appreciate the selflessness of this small girl. 

I will be honest and admit that it was wonderful to once again enjoy a hot, pressurized shower and to sleep through the night without being woken by crowing roosters at 4am. However, being immersed in the culture of the Solomon Islands, even for just three weeks, has made me rethink priorities and all the 'extras' that we expend unnecessary energy on with a focus on ourselves rather than serving others. Throughout this trip, I realized I was completely dependent on the help of others in all areas, including navigating through new environments, introducing me to new people, and translating conversations (yes, both in Auki and Sydney, ha!) Life in the Solomons is simple, though far from easy, and people rely on each other's strengths to help them through challenging times and situations. In this way, I witnessed firsthand how interconnected we all were, even as an outsider from half a world away, and how each of us benefits from the strengths and unique perspectives that every individual contributes. I could not have fully prepared myself for the world that I stepped into but I did find that even after only three short weeks, I began to feel like I was being woven into the fabric of the community, each thread criss-crossing one another and ultimately all connected.

In the end, while it sounds cliché, this journey and the people I meet will remain with me forever. Years from now I may not be able to recall all the names of my Form 4 students or what specific grammar lessons I had taught, but I will always be able to bring back memories of being coated in chalk dust, nervously trying to figure out how to start that first week. Other moments, like seeing the smiling faces of the Fanualama kids swimming on our beach picnic day and the friendly “Odang!” greeting walking to school each morning, will remain special to me. And thinking about it further, coming home does not necessarily mean an end to the adventure. Rather, it gives me a chance to share my amazing experiences with others and opens new doors for further opportunities and learning. Sharing what I have. Sharing my gifts and talents. Just like that little girl and her necklace.

I guess that means I should get to unpacking that suitcase…

Tuesday, August 16th- Thursday, August 18th: “Nothing happens until it has happened”

These wise words of Father Jim, an Irish Dominican who I met in Honiara seem to perfectly describe my experiences here in the Solomon Islands. Gearing up for this trip over a month and a half ago, I couldn’t even begin to anticipate both the challenges and anxieties and the successes and accomplishments I have felt during my time in Auki. “Nothing happens until it has happened” was Fr Jim’s way of saying you couldn’t plan on everything, but rather you had to learn to simply live by experiencing moment by moment. Coming from a completely different culture where often it seems as if every minute is scheduled and ‘time is of the essence,’ it was a transition not to have the pressures (though sometimes also the security) of following a strict timetable. Even the teachers at Aligegeo showed me that things operate on “Solomon Island time” and spent an 15 extra minutes deep in conversation with me about American and Solomon Island history while their class waited for them across campus or left early to care for a sick neighbor. Things operate moment by moment, giving me more insight on what their –and my –priorities are. Living in the Solomons for over 20 years, Father Jim has had plenty of experience with this way of life and joked that he has been stood up at funerals, weddings, and even waited to celebrate the midnight Christmas vigil mass until 4:00 the next afternoon! It’s patience, flexibility and understanding what people need, he said, and I’ve been reminded time and again to “take time to smell the flowers” over the past few weeks.

Before I departed on Tuesday for my boat ride back to Honiara (jokingly I said I would have to stay if I “happened” to miss the boat and I think Sr Regina was looking for a chance to hide my ticket!) I said my goodbyes to the families at Fanualama and the pikininis at kindy. After missing them last week from being sick, I looked forward to seeing the young students once again before I left. They put on a show for me, performing a handful of songs both in English and Pijin, including, of course, “The Wheels on the Bus” and “Five Little Monkeys.” They sent me off with a farewell of “lukim iu behind!” and I soon said goodbyes to Srs Regina and Maria on the wharf as well. Sr Loretta and I traveled by boat back to Honiara and I felt a drastic difference this time around after having a traveling companion and being used to the culture. We were greeted by more Dominican sisters, Teresa and Hilda (who has an infectious laugh that can put anyone in a good mood!) and went back with them to shower and settle in.

I got to see the sights and sounds of Honiara –even within the islands there are huge culture differences and I witnessed much more of a hustle-bustle city feel in Honiara than in Auki. Again entering into a new neighborhood made me miss the community at Fanualama I had just left and the familiar and friendly faces I had come to know and love. At the same time, this new place offered new experiences and I joined the sisters for a farewell celebration for Teresa’s niece traveling to Australia and got to enjoy the festivities of Kirabati culture as they sang and prayed in their native language. I was not the only one entertained, however. The youngest kids immediately threw themselves at me, fascinated with my pale skin and one of Teresa’s nieces rubbed my leg and said with a smile, “iufala white…mifala black!” This realization was such a novelty for them just as it was a special moment for me to witness the celebrations of their own culture. 

Monday, August 15th: Malaita Day!

 As I enjoyed a restful night’s sleep Sunday night, there were big preparations being made throughout the night for the celebration of Maliata day on Monday. The youths of each of the local parishes were given the task to “divide and conquer” the preparations for the celebratory meals for the Prime Minister’s visit the following day. Starting at 10pm and working throughout the night, the students filled tables with puddings, potatoes, greens, chicken, fish, rice and even a full roasted pig! The Prime Minister, along with other local magistrates, arrived Monday morning to celebrate Maliata’s anniversary of declaring itself a province after the Solomon Island independence.

Besides the feasting, the Maliatans put on another beautiful show of traditional song, dress and dance during the parade to honor the Prime Minister. Various community groups, including the local marching band, police force, tribal groups and students from the community high school and Aligegeo (most of my Form 4 students!) marched valiantly onto the soccer field and stood at attention for 3 hours in the sweltering sun during the ceremony. I was grateful for my umbrella to block the sun as the Solomon Islanders kept with their custom of giving long, formal speeches and felt sympathy for the marching members who seemed to be baking out on the field!

Following the formalities, I watched as each of the cultural groups performed and I got another chance to enjoy the barrel drumming, panpipes, shell shakers that are tied to the dancers’ legs and the beautiful choreography that honored their tribal roots. The costumes, too, were amazingly intricate and dancers were draped with layers and layers of shell money and adorned with flowers and leaves. At one point, however, the crowd erupted into laughter when it was discovered that the leaf belts used as a covering for the dancers weren’t all that secure with all the jumping and stomping and a few of the dancers raced off the field mid-performance to cover themselves –oops!

Monday night was dubbed “the last supper” and I enjoyed my last night with Bishop Chris, Fr Moses, Agatha and Srs Loretta, Regina and Maria. Dinner was a time of reflection (and more speeches by all!). I was touched by the many heartfelt thanks but felt that they were the ones who should be celebrated for opening their hearts and homes to me, making me feel welcomed. Although I’ve appreciated the ceremonial announcements and attention that comes from introductions like “Bishop Chris’ wontalk,” I am especially thankful for the simple signs and small displays of community. I am grateful for the giant hugs I get from Denise each morning after mass, the way the sisters include me in meal preparations (at first they only allowed me to chop the greens, but I think I’ve graduated to more advanced levels after they let me husk, chop and scrape the coconut for making rice, ha!), the enthusiastic “Iu go lo wea, Annie?” from Chrisma as I pass her house for school each morning, the smiles and waves from the familiar faces of the students and teachers in the market, and young Waisu’s shy routine of inching closer and closer to me on the chapel bench, hoping I won’t notice. It’s moments like these that have made me truly happy while being here and the moments I will miss the most. 

Thursday, August 11th –Sunday, August 14th: A Show of Thanks –Tanggio tumas

The time of departure is drawing near as I wrap up my stay in Auki and I waffle back and forth, thinking, am I ready to go home just yet? In one sense, I look forward to seeing my friends and families soon, being able to share my awesome experiences and enjoy some of the luxuries of being home, like a hot shower and my own bed. At the same time, however, I’m not ready to leave behind the relationships I have formed here. A year and a half ago, my knowledge of the Solomon Islands consisted in the sparse number of facts from WWII trivia. After only three weeks, the Solomons became not just a name written in the pages of a history textbook or travel brochure but has become a part of my life in a bigger way. I now appreciate the countless people I have met and the special moments we have shared in the classroom or chapel, on the road or at the dinner table. Living and working with them, even for only three weeks, has given me an experience I will never forget.

As I said goodbyes to my students over the past two days, it was easy to see the difference in both them and myself. Arriving, I was a slightly overwhelmed visitor who had only a little experience in education and was handed an English grammar workbook to refer to. Similarly, the students were taken aback by this strange foreigner who didn’t speak their language and who seemed to ask impossible grammatical questions. Yet in these last few days, the students have jumped at the chance to take group photos, exchange addresses and even bid me farewell with “Mi fala luvim iu, Madame!” (“We love you, miss!”). It’s wonderful to feel a part of this community at Alegegeo, but an even better feeling knowing that I have been able to help in some small way. This past week, instead of looking out and seeing averted eyes or hidden faces, the students opened up enough to ask questions and help for English grammar review. By benefitting from their questions and feedback I felt that this week, especially, I had been able to focus on what they needed and wanted rather than going blindly by the book. I wish I could stay longer and have more time to interact with these students; it seems I have to leave just as we’ve reached a comfort level with one another!

In recognition of my past two weeks at Alegegeo, the teachers graciously hosted a farewell celebration where they did what Solomon Islanders do best –give speeches, food and gifts. I returned to the staff room after my last class, surprised to find all faculty and staff gathered with a prepared lunch and a warm welcome. I was taken aback by the humble speeches as teachers and class captains alike apologized for the lack of resources and the possible behavior of the students. I couldn’t help thinking, “But they have nothing to apologize for!” feeling appreciative and respectful of their culture. As I’ve come to discover, gift giving is a huge tradition here in the islands and so the teachers presented me with traditional shell money jewelry and handmade baskets. In return, I was able to offer them a donation of flash drives for the teachers’ use. This exchange is only a physical expression, for it’s been a learning experience for us all and an exchange of language, culture and traditions.

Saturday was beach day! “It’s sunny days like this and pictures of picnics on the beach that make people think my job is a year-round vacation,” Bishop Chris joked. After a morning in the kitchen preparing, we loaded up Bishop’s truck (not an exaggeration, as we managed to fit 20+ people as well as food for all!) and headed to the seaside for beach soccer, swimming and picnicking. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day –we enjoyed beautiful weather and warm water, which was clear enough to hunt down the blue starfish hiding in the coral. It was soon established that I was to be used as a human diving board, and the pikininis nearly drowned their new friend as they all tried to climb up and jump off my shoulders at the same time. Driving home, we made a pit stop at the river for a “free car wash,” during which we had to sacrifice a few passengers in the back to lighten the load after getting stuck halfway through…oops! We returned in time to watch the final game of the Maliata cup between green Central Province and blue Auki. (After a weeklong tournament that had been played on the soccer field on the Alegegeo campus, the teachers will be relieved that they can now teach in peace. I, too, found that the rules of English grammar couldn’t compete for the students’ attention while there was excited cheering just out the window. I can’t say I blame them...) 

That evening, after a dinner of delicious coconut crab with the sisters (yum!), Sr Loretta and I went to see the students at Alegegeo showcase their dance talents and perform some traditional island dances they had prepared. Although initially very shy to step out onto the dance floor, they blew me away with their song and dance, each different one representing the cultures and traditions of various tribes. After cheering on their favorites, the dance floor was once again open to all the brave souls. My students dragged me out again and again, calling, “Madame, come dance so you can show your friends how to dance Solomon Island style!” (Warning to all you at home: be prepared…!)

Sunday morning called for an encore of French toast (I can’t tell if the sisters will miss me or the recipe, ha!) followed by mass down the road at St. Augustine’s Church. During mass, the parish community presented me with a beautiful flower lei, shell money necklace and carved wooden cross. I am truly humbled by the generosity of the community here in Auki, for even though they did not initially strike me as a wealthy community, they are wonderful givers of warmth, hospitality and love. 

Wednesday, August 10th: Rest and Reflection

Looking back and thinking about how “jump” had been my initial approach to spending my time here in Auki, I’ve come to realize that quiet observation and reflection are just as important when tackling something new. Often times, however, I am filled with excitement and greet these new opportunities with such energy that I can forget to briefly take a quiet time-out and to stop and reflect. After a busy week and a half in Auki, my stomach finally met its match with some of the foods during the weekend celebrations and I was forced, reluctantly, to sit out some of the week’s planned activities and spend some quiet rest time. (During this time I’ve discovered that Solomon Island lemons are the cure-all for all sicknesses here!) Although I was disappointed that I wasn’t able to practice the new sing-sings with the kindys or make another visit to Kilu-ufi, I took this opportunity to reflect on some of the things I have learned while in the Solomons.

1.      Listen. One of the first things I noticed upon arriving in the Solomons was how very soft-spoken people are. Considering both this and the fact that most are speaking in Pijin, I faced a bit of a challenge with communication my first few days. At home, I needed very little effort to hear and understand what someone said and a simple response of a nod or ‘uh-huh’ would suffice. Coming to the Solomons, however, I had to adjust this approach altogether and focus attention on active listening rather than simply hearing what people were saying. On more than one occasion, I’ve had to lean over, face to face, with students asking questions in class in order to hear them. I’ve also had to ask people to repeat their names an embarrassingly large number of times before I’ve heard them correctly. These listening exercises have made me aware of the distractions we face and the ‘automatic response’ that we so often resort to in conversation rather than being fully present.

2.      Why be intimidated? Walking through the market with Srs Regina and Maria my first Saturday here, I was completely overwhelmed by the chaotic atmosphere and even felt intimidated by the attention I drew from everyone in the market. I found, too, that walking through Alegegio campus and Kilu’ufi hospital that all stares were directed at me, which made me feel out of place. Getting up in front of a classroom full of students only a few years younger than myself, was definitely unnerving and I couldn’t help but wonder if I was making any difference. Yet, as I came to grow used to my new setting and learning names and faces of the people around me, I grew much more comfortable and relaxed and able to start forming relationships with these people. I even came to find out from the teachers at Alegegio that the students were more intimidated of me than I was of them and I had no reason to be worried!

3.      Dancing brings joy. Dancing, whether it is the Hokey Pokey or traditional Solomon Island dance, brings a certain joy to a situation. Sharing the laughter and fellowship of those around you allow you to connect with people –even if you don’t speak the same language.

4.      Go with the flow. I’ve come to find that things here operate on “Solomon Island time.” Just like my flight to Honiara at the beginning of the trip, the weather dictates much of what happens here on the island –everything from when stores open and close, to the bus schedule (or rather, lack thereof) and whether or not school is in session. Be flexible. Be patient.

5.   Power of prayer. Arriving in this totally new culture with new faces, sounds, foods and customs, I was relieved to find that the church and its community was somewhere I felt at home. No matter how different other things were, there was that same sense of community when people gathered together in prayer, both in the small chapel here in Fanulama and in the larger church down the road. It was inspiring to see the faith of all the members of the small community here –even down to 5-year old Waisu, who joins us each evening for the rosary, even though he understands very little English.

Sunday, August 8th: More Staka Kaikai

One thing that I’ve noticed here in the Solomon Islands is that when a community comes together to celebrate, there is always lots of food! This morning’s mass was a special celebration of Brother Malkalm and Bernard’s deaconate ordination and this occasion called for an elaborate show of Solomon Island culture. The opening procession was lead by a male pan pipe group dressed in traditional grass skirts and draped in shell money, ushering in Bishop Chris and the 20 priests that have been meeting with him this week. Malkalm and Bernard were escorted in by their parents, who were also in traditional Solomon Island style dress, followed by some members of the youth group in Auki who performed tribal dances up to the alter. The whole ceremony was a fantastic show of community support and beautiful Solomon Island tradition! Following mass, the entire parish gathered outside to share a huge feast that the families of the parish had prepared (and another family welcomed everyone back for dinner again! Ooof, my stomach!)

I’ve learned that while people here eat light, simple meals throughout the week, using things they grow themselves in the garden, they pull out all the stops for celebrations like this! Families are responsible for all contributing their fair share and there is often an unwritten account kept of who donates what, as they can get quite expensive. Mothers and daughters of the families will spend days preparing for feasts like the ones today to provide enough food for the guests as it’s considered unsuccessful if there isn’t enough food to send home with guests at the end.

The tradition of serving the food is another whole story! After the head of the house or the guest of honor blesses the food, he will often end with “Attack!” and it’s a rush for the women and children to the serving line first. Since there is no such thing as seconds, the strategy, from what I’ve gathered, is to pile as much food as you can in whatever bowl or plate you brought along (and I’ve seen some pretty creative platters using container lids and buckets). Community meals are taken very seriously here and give a sense of unity to the people sharing it and I feel blessed to be able to participate in a number of these celebrations since arriving here.

Saturday, August 6th: Solomon Style Swimming

Saturday is a free day for the sisters here at Fanulama, so after morning mass and breakfast of leftover fish from last night’s celebration, Regina and I took the bus into Auki to the market to do some shopping. I was on a mission to find bread so I could make French toast for breakfast for the sisters tomorrow. Upon arriving, I immediately recognized a few teachers and students from Alegegio who waved and called out “Morning, Madame!” which is the usual address for a teacher here in the Solomons. Seeing these familiar faces made the market much less overwhelming than last week; however finding the ingredients I was searching for proved to be more challenging. Instead of the clearly marked isles in the local Stop and Shop which separated fruits and vegetables from the dairy and cereal, market vendors and shop keepers sold virtually anything and everything in their small stalls –that is, everything except for sliced bread! I came to discover that fresh sliced bread is not a common item here in Auki, and instead, the vendors must wait until it is shipped over from Honiara. But if I’ve learned anything from this trip so far, it is that improvisation is key, so I’ll be trying out some Solomon Islands French toast tomorrow morning!

After returning from our wild goose chase in town, the sisters and I packed a picnic lunch and headed for a walkabout to the beach for the afternoon. On our way, I got to experience a little more of the rural part of Auki outside of Fanulama and witnessed everything from a family’s washing and bathing session in a small stream by the road to a Solomon style game of bocce being played with plastic water bottles and empty tuna cans. At the beach, Regina and Maria educated me in the proper way to climb a coconut tree –all while doing it in their blue uniforms! And we enjoyed the warm waters of the ocean, while stepping carefully around the small purple sea urchins every few feet (and we stayed close to shore to avoid any confrontations with the sharks I’ve heard so much about…)

After a week of practicing my dancing skills during nightly dance parties with the sisters (where I’ve discovered that Sr Loretta is a huge fan of the electric guitar move!), it was time to put my dancing shoes to the test with the Alegegio students.  Every Saturday night the students gather together for a social night and Sr Loretta and I planned a few activities and dances to do with the students this week. If it’s possible, the students enjoyed the Hokey Pokey and the Chicken Dance even more than the sisters and then afterwards they showed me some Solomon dance moves of their own. Much like in the classroom, the girls were extremely shy and needed a lot of coaxing to get them out on the dance floor, but the boys had no problem running out into the middle to dance with one another (another big difference here in the Solomons). And while you couldn’t pay money to see me alone in the middle of the dance floor back in the states, here I was, jumping around and showing some “American” moves while about 300 students laughed and clapped along! Loretta and I arrived home exhausted but happy and I’m hoping that after seeing me joke around and dance with them, the students may be a bit more open in the classroom this coming week!

Friday, August 5th: Happy St. Dominic’s Day!

Today was my first day celebrating St. Dominic’s feast day with a full Dominican community and I got to experience it in true Solomon Island fashion! The community here at Fanulama pulled out all the stops and came together for a family-style dinner at Bishop Chris’ house. Staff members and their families, priests from all over Maliata, DMI sisters of Auki, and even students from Alegegio helped celebrate this special feast day honoring the Dominican friars and sisters (and the honorary Dominican guest!). Following a special mass in St. Augustine chapel and a wild half-mile race back to Fanulama (here’s where I have to admit that I was beat out by 5-year old Clemente…I’ll blame it on the flip-flops!) we gathered in a small hall for a large feast –staka kaikai. And it wouldn’t be upholding the Dominican tradition of preaching without some speeches! Bishop Chris invited all the community members –even the little pikininis –to say something and I, too, am getting quite good at impromptu speeches. Although far away from home, this community came together tonight and I felt welcomed and blessed to be considered part of the Dominican family.

Tuesday, August 2nd –Thursday, August 4th: “Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore…”

This is the one-week mark since I arrived in the Solomon Islands and I can honestly say it’s unlike anything I have ever experienced! Being shaken out of my comfort zone and thrown into a wildly different culture and environment, I’ve not only been made aware of personal strengths and weaknesses but also discovered an intriguing culture that, just over a year ago, I didn’t even know existed. It’s also a wonder how a week’s time can make you much more comfortable and familiar with a different environment; upon first arriving, I can definitely say I was overwhelmed and intimidated by the sharp contrast of cultures. However, during the past week I’ve been able to build important connections with many of the people in the community here at Auki and simply get used to the activities of daily life. I’ve learned that it’s perfectly natural to brush your teeth with coconut milk, share a cold-water bucket shower with a few friendly geckos, for boys to walk down the street holding hands and for students to use berries from the “glue tree” to stick pieces of their art projects together! While initially taken aback, I am struck by the friendliness of the people here in the Solomons. Family members, especially the pikininis, or younger kids, living in Fanulama love to wave and yell a greeting to me as I walk by their homes on the way to and from school. After a few days, I feel very welcomed and a part of this small community here (and I’m even able to respond with a greeting in Pijin, which they love!).

On Tuesday I had the joy of accompanying Srs Maria and Regina to the local kindy, or preschool/kindergarten. Although the setup of the classroom is quite different from schools in the states (the building is one main room with hanging curtain dividers to separate the three grade levels), the enthusiasm and energy of the kids was the same as they raced around to get my attention. At this age, the kids here in the Solomons are not embarrassed to stare and many times I turned to find a group of four or five looking wide-eyed at me, wondering what this strange American visitor was doing in their school. Working with the kindies was a bit more challenging than teaching at the secondary school because they had not yet learned English, so I found it easiest to stick with the basics –simple poems and nursery rhymes. I can now proudly say that “Five Little Monkeys” and “Wheels on the Bus” became an overnight sensation here in Auki! (While sitting in the chapel later that night during evening prayer, I could hear a little voice next to me whispering, “Mommy called the doctor and the doctor said, ‘No more monkeys jumping on the bed...’”) I think perhaps next week we’ll try the Hokey Pokey!

My experiences on Wednesday, however, were of a completely different nature. Again I tagged along with the two sisters on their pastoral rounds and Wednesdays they visit Kilu’ufi Hospital. Kilu’ufi is the main hospital on the island of Maliata and consists of a number of small outdoor buildings that house each of the mental/psychiatric, men, women and children’s wards. Walking across the hospital grounds, I was overwhelmed with a mix of emotions. The conditions were completely different than those I am used to; instead of private rooms, tiled floors, adjustable beds and doctors and nurses hurrying from patient to patient, my first observations were of cement walls and floors, buzzing flies and crowded one-room facilities with just a few staff and university students attending to the patients. While I had appreciated the many privileges I have after working in the soup kitchen at St Vincent DePaul and Night Patrol back in Sydney, those feelings were nothing compared to how I felt after leaving Kilu’ufi. What touched me the most was entering the children’s ward and seeing the 20 or so beds crammed together with young babies and toddlers hooked up to IVs and lying underneath mosquito netting. It was heart wrenching. Although our visit was brief after we delivered communion to some of the patients, these sights and experiences of the hospital were so incredible, they will remain with me for a long time.

Each day after I am done shadowing Srs Maria and Regina, I walk across the street to join Sr Loretta to teach at Alegegio Secondary School. Although there are still things I’m getting used to, like when students get up to spit their betal nut juice out of the window, the class-stopping noise from helicopters overhead, and the extreme shyness of the students, I think I am getting the hang of it! Yesterday, as I walked out of class with one of the students, he turned to me and said, “Miss, when we don’t respond, it’s not that we don’t understand. It’s just that we’re nervous about speaking English in front of you. If we make mistakes, others will laugh.” He went on to explain that many of the students were intimidated by my English-speaking ability because it was only their third language. Standing all of 5’4”, this surprised me as I can hardly consider myself an intimidating person. All this time I’ve been self-conscious and feeling slightly out of my element, but here I’ve come to realize that these students are in a similar situation when learning English. In fact, I’ve started to realize they are more intimidated of me than I am of them! In response to this feedback, I planned an activity today to role-play the narrative that one of the English classes was working on. I had volunteers come to the front of the room and act out the short story –and it was a success! The students were more responsive when they didn’t have to raise their hand and be singled out in front of the class, but after being joined by others in front of the room, they were soon laughing and joking.

I’ve had the chance to talk with many of the teachers, too, in the staff room during free periods and I often come back to find a small group of them sitting around my borrowed desk, waiting to ask questions. I’ve had some really interesting discussions with them about differences in culture and society of developing and developed countries, government and economy. I accompanied one of the teachers to a social studies class where they were (fittingly) learning about changes in society so I was able to tell a little about changes in American society from the colonial era until now. The students were amused to hear that women wear pants in the U.S., and I was just as surprised to find out that brides in the Solomons traditionally wear blue with their top uncovered and decorated with tribal symbols.

Arriving at school this afternoon, clutching a coconut and banana for lunch, splattered with mud, and drenched from getting caught in a torrential downpour, one of the teachers smiled and said, “You are a true Solomon Island girl now!” This is my biggest compliment yet! I’m trying to soak it all in while I can –and that includes learning Solomon Island style cooking. I’ve helped Agatha make dinner for the large gathering of priests who are staying with Bishop Chris this week. She showed me how to use the ‘local kitchen,’ which is a small leaf hut housing a wood fire to use for barbeque, grilling and boiling potatoes. Dry coconut shells are used as kindling and bamboo tongs or dried coconut leaves are used to remove hot pots from the fire. I’ve learned how to make use of all parts of the coconut too; leaves are woven into baskets, mats, potholders and bags, husks are used for firewood, shells can be carved into custom spoons and the meat and milk are used for cooking. But the sisters are just as curious about Western style of cooking as I am about Solomon Island food and I’ve promised to try some French Toast with them and give chocolate chip cookies a shot (although brown sugar isn’t used here and chocolate chips are hard to come by so I think I’ll improvise with a few Mars bars I was able to pick up at the general store!)

Monday, August 1st: Explicit and Implicit Conclusions

Sorry in advance for the excessive, yet outdated posts...I've just got to the internet since I've been here to post updates of my trip!

I taught my first English class today! I was caught slightly off guard after being thrown into the middle of teaching a form 6 English class (the regular teacher met with me 5 minutes before class started, handed me a book of grammar activities, pointed and said, “Here’s where we ended. That’s where you can start!”). I’ve had some practice teaching before with religious education throughout high school, but never English as a second language. And while I thought that Pijin has been slightly challenging to follow, I can only imagine the difficulty that English grammar presents to these students –for many of them this is their third language!

Opening the workbook up to the unit, it was a lesson on ‘Concepts in Writing’ focusing on drawing conclusions and describing the differences between implicit and explicit conclusions. Ok. I took a deep breath. I got this. While the explanation and activities took up less than a page in the workbook, I spent the entire 50 minutes trying to explain the use of conclusions in writing, making up examples and trying desperately to get the class involved. One thing I noticed, and something that Srs Regina and Loretta also advised, is that students in the Solomon Islands will respond however it makes the teacher happy – whether they understand the material or not. Because of the culture, too, they very rarely make eye contact (especially after I’ve asked a question, so they don’t get called on, but is that really all that different from students in the US?!) and sometimes also respond by raising their eyebrows instead of nodding. While teaching explicit vs. implicit statements, I couldn’t help but be humored at the irony of the implicit messages they were sending!

Yet after my initial surprise, at the end of teaching the second period of teaching the same lesson, I felt much more confident and comfortable engaging with the class. By the time they left they were all smiling and laughing (ok, they were laughing at me because I had never heard of ‘String Band’ before, which is a type of music here in the Solomons) and a few volunteered some Pijin phrases (“Tanggio teachin fo mifala,” which is “thank you for teaching us”).

Embarking on this trip, one of the goals I had written in my proposal was that I wanted to become more flexible and patient. Today’s teaching experience was not just an English exercise for the students, but also a humbling experience and made me improvise, taking into account the individual personalities of the students. While I’ve always tended to be one to spend time agonizing over a paper or presentation outline, today it was all about recognizing when the students needed an explanation repeated or given another example. As I return to Alegegio Secondary School for the next two weeks, I will continue to learn from these students as I teach them English.

I’m off to review some geography notes from one of the social studies teachers, whose class I will be teaching tomorrow. Tomorrow’s lesson: the use of the population demographic transition model…oh boy…

Sunday, July 31st: Fishes and Loaves

This morning the sisters and I walked down the road (after enjoying sleeping in until 6:30!) for mass at St. Augustine Church. It was Bishop Chris’ first mass at the church since he’s returned and he received a very warm welcome from the parish (most people around Auki know him and smile, wave and shout hello as he drives past in his truck). Before beginning, Bishop Chris introduced me as his ‘wontalk,’ someone of the same language, and afterwards many members came up to shake hands, say hello and introduce themselves.

Bishop Chris spoke (in Pijin, so I had to listen carefully to be able to understand) about the parable of fishes and loaves and how regardless of the location, priests celebrating mass all over the world were reading the same gospel, signifying its importance in Christian living. Since I’ve been here I’m already beginning to understand this importance of sharing a meal within a community. Although each of the sisters works on a different project during the day, mifala (everyone) always comes together to share breakfast, lunch and dinner. Not only that, but there is always an extra chair near the table and a plate to share for anyone who may drop by.

This afternoon we drove along the (very bumpy!) dirt road to Buma for Bishop Chris to visit some of the Croatian sisters who arrived just after he left for his holiday in the states. All four are nurses and are planning to work with the local women’s community on maternal health and try to address the problem of maternal and infant mortality rates. They, too, opened their doors to our large crew and set the table with Croatian rolls and some more of the very special Solomon Island pancakes (they’re delicious when served with sprinkled sugar! mmm) and added more chairs and benches as more members of the community stopped in. The sisters are beginning to learn Solomon Island Pijin, and three of them are tackling English as well, which is a huge feat. While Bishop Chris discussed plans for some of their programs, Loretta took me for a walkabout on the black-sanded beach where we watched a game of beach soccer (I got a loud cheer for saving a runaway ball from the waves –I’m starting to master playing in a skirt and flip flops…)

I also met and talked with Cynthia who is 19 and living with and assisting the nuns. Like the other students in Australia, she was very curious to hear all about New York and in return taught me some Pijin phrases and explained some ones I’ve started to hear:
Staka= many
Lukim = see
Tanggio = Thank you (or thank q, as I saw written on the boat ride over)
Tanggio tumas = thank you very much
Gud tumas = very good
Gu for lukim iu = Good to see/meet you
Lukim iu behind = See you later
Wea nao = where
Nem bloi iu? = What is your name?
Iu blow ea? = Where do you come from?
Iu stap lo wea? = Where do you live?
Wea nao iu go? = Where are you going?
Fo kaikai = to eat/to feast
Iu laea! = You’re lying!
Sore! = oops!/Watch it!/Sorry!
Plis, iu save sidaon = Please, take a seat
Iu hao? = How are you?
Iu nice balla tumas= You are very pretty
Iufala look nice = you all look nice
Turu iu gecko = not quite sure what this means translated, but one of the sisters said it’s a big hit with the kids, so I’ll have to give it a shot

After daily evening prayer, the sisters and I joined Agatha, Father Moses, and Brother Malcolm, who is preparing to be ordained deacon next Sunday, at Bishop Chris’ house for weekly Sunday dinner. There was staka kaikai including fried fish and chips, onion and ginger chicken, and fresh cabbage, cucumbers, green peppers, corn and pineapples, all grown in the garden or from the market. Even Corporal, the neighborhood dog, enjoyed the leftovers of the meal, crunching happily on the chicken bones (“We could run energy for the whole compound with his tail right now!” said Bishop Chris.) Sharing this meal together, I learned more about Auki from Bishop Chris, discussed some of the programs I will be working in this week, and enjoyed everyone’s company.

Saturday, July 30th: Christmas in July

While there is something incredibly satisfying about listening to the merry sounds of Christmas carols seated by a roaring fire with mug of hot chocolate and snow falling outside the window, I’ve discovered they are just as much fun to listen to when dressed in a tank top and sandals, drinking coconut juice straight from the shell. Being big fans of music, the sisters have a wide collection, including a Christmas cd and (unlike many strict Americans I know who relegate the Christmas music between Thanksgiving and New Years) have no problem enjoying a few “O Holy Nights” and “The First Noels” in the off-season! As I helped Sr Maria prepare lunch this afternoon – a delicious cabbage, tuna and tomato quiche – we played the Christmas music a few times through.

The young boys of the families here in Fanualama (or “place of peace”), which is the compound for the chapel and houses for Bishop Chris, the sisters, visitors and a couple of families in the community, had their own “Christmas in July” after receiving a few small gifts from Bishop Chris after his arrival late last night. I watched them squeal with laughter as they transitioned from a game of soccer, to running bases, and finally ‘frisbee’ with the now-flattened ball. Bishop Chris pointed out how, unlike children in America, these kids were not run by micromanaged schedules (half the time, he said, their parents may not even know where they are) and they were thrilled to just be running around, shirtless, in the hot mid-day sun.

After a busy schedule in Australia, it was a little difficult to sit still without feeling like I wasn’t able to contribute to anything. So when the chance came, jumped to help Maria make lunch and Loretta weed the front lawn area. However, while my hands felt busy, I wasn’t all that sure if the help I offered was really just getting in the way (even after a trip to the market this morning to see all the fresh fruits and vegetables laid out, I’m still a bit unsure about certain types so Maria ended up doing most of it). While I kneeled among the clover in front of the house, listening to some tropical island songs (at this point we had moved past the Christmas carols) Regina called me inside to help her and Maria with their English course studies. Finally I felt a bit more in my element –nouns, adjectives and adverbs are the same here as they were in Ridgefield High School. Regina and Maria are working on completing a certificate course to help them advance in levels of English and while I am here I will try and answer their questions about understanding the instructions.

Loretta explained to me this morning the school system here in the Solomon Islands. Unlike the America public school system, which mandates that students stay in school to a certain age, students here must pass examinations after grades 7, 10, and 11 in order to stay in school. Because of this there are fewer students at the university level, a number that is made even smaller because of the financial burden on the families. There is also a financial responsibility for families with girls, as the ‘bride price’ is still practiced here in Maliata. As we sat eating dinner last night, we heard loud singing and cheering pass along the street and the sisters explained to me that it was a wedding celebration. However, the cheering only came from the husband’s side of the family –the bride’s family essentially loses a family member as she takes the dowry and goes off to live with her husband.

Thursday, July 28th – Friday, July 29th: Jump!

After plane, train, automobile and boat rides later, “jump!” was the welcoming word that first greeted me in Auki this morning. I arrived at the wharf on the Pelican Express, a small ferryboat over from the island, Honiara, and found that Auki is an extremely busy port! Because of the line of boats, we could not pull directly up and instead I mastered the art of ‘boat-hopping’ across another cargo ship onto the nearby dock. (It takes a bit more concentration with a giant backpackers pack strapped to your back to judge and balance the jump across the 3-foot wide gap –especially after witnessing another passenger’s luggage not quite make it…yikes!) Once safely across, Srs Regina and Maria greeted me with a beautiful flower lei and we pushed through the hot, bustling crowd to find my luggage.

The sights, sounds and smells that have met me both here in Auki and yesterday in Honiara are more different than anything I have yet experienced. First, there are the drivers –Rhode Island drivers have nothing on the ones here! As soon as we pulled out of the airport yesterday going down the road (which was one-way only, I might add) we were met with oncoming traffic with drivers laughing and waving at our surprised expressions as we had to quickly turn off onto the grass. Just driving seems like a constant game of chicken! As we’ve passed open pickup trucks on the road, I’ve seen the open beds packed with people, both sitting up on the sides and at the back, with legs hanging off (seems a bit tricky with the bumpy dirt roads, so I give them a lot of credit!), where they sit for hours driving from the north shore to other places on the island. There’s also a very popular trend among the men of chewing on betal nuts, which are very sour, red fruit (that dyes your mouth) and which you chew and spit. There are stands, or even just simple tarps on the ground, all along the roads with people selling them. And the sweet, sweet smell of coconut is everywhere!

As for the food, there are lots and lots of fruits and vegetables grown in backyard gardens as well as fresh fish from the docks. Between yesterday and today, I’ve gotten a range of Solomon Island taste –fish and chips, chicken wings seasoned with ginger, rice with curry, ‘pancakes’ (which is a lot like fried dough cakes) potatoes, potatoes, potatoes, and plenty of banana, pineapples, watermelon, cucumber, spinach, and green pepper. (I’ve also been promised by Sr Regina that she will make her famous pudding made from cassava and coconut!) The sisters will teach me to cook some of their common Solomon Island meals and have asked what recipes I know so I can teach them as well. I’m still trying to figure out all the ingredients available here –lots and lots of fresh fruit and vegetables – so any suggestions for some simple recipes would be much appreciated! (Perhaps we’ll try chocolate chip cookies –chocolate biscuits –as they call them here.)

           

That initial greeting “jump!” seems to be fitting, as that will continue to be my mantra while I am here in the Solomons. Already I’ve begun to fall into some of the patterns here –including after-dinner dance parties! Sr Loretta who also lives with Srs Regina and Maria put on some classic dance tunes this evening, everything from the hokey pokey (known here as ‘okey cokey’ ha!) to ‘the twist.’ Yes, see if you can picture me teaching these three Solomon Island sisters the moves to the chicken dance! (If possible, I think it was even funnier for them…) I’ve been promised to learn the “Paupa New Guinea” dance tomorrow night in return!

There’s much more to tell but after a long day of travel and a promise of early morning prayer and meeting with Bishop Chris (who arrives late tonight!) I’m calling it a night.  In my bug canopy-covered bed, I’m serenaded to sleep by distant singing and howling (though I’m trying to keep one eye open on this lizard scaling the wall across the room…)